What to Pack for a Self-Catering Holiday with a Baby
In this guide, we’ll discuss what to pack yourself and what to request for your family staycation.
Agatha Christie loved Devon. She was born in Torquay in 1890, drew on the county's coast and countryside for some of her most famous mysteries, and for much of her life divided her time between her childhood home and a white Georgian house tucked above a bend in the River Dart. That house is Greenway. She called it 'the loveliest place in the world', and once you've stood on its lawn, you'll struggle to argue.
Today Greenway is cared for by the National Trust, and it's around 50 minutes by car from Flear Farm. Is it worth the drive? You bet. Whether you're a mystery buff, a garden lover or simply looking for a proper day out from East Allington, Greenway rewards a slow, curious wander.
Let's discover it together.
Christie had known Greenway since she was a girl growing up in nearby Torquay, and when she and her second husband, the archaeologist Max Mallowan, bought it in 1938, it must have felt like a dream come true. Indeed, she described it as 'the ideal house, a dream house'.
She owned several homes over her life, but Greenway was different. It was the holiday house: the place the family came back to between digs and book tours to recharge and regroup. Summers here meant croquet and Clock Golf on the lawn, lazy afternoons beside the river and, in the evenings, Christie reading her latest manuscript aloud to family and friends. Imagine being the first to hear whodunnit, from the woman who decided.
One thing worth clearing up: she didn't write her novels here. Greenway was for living, not working. But the place still crept into the fiction. You'll spot it in Five Little Pigs and, most famously, in 1956's Dead Man's Folly, which sees Hercule Poirot investigate a murder at a curiously familiar country house. Then there's 1958's Ordeal by Innocence, set just across the river, complete with a nearby town called 'Drymouth'. (Ahem – Dartmouth, anyone?)
What makes Greenway so special is that the family never really left. The National Trust describes it as the only house Christie and Mallowan owned where the original collection is still in place. This isn't an exhibition about an author. It's her holiday home, with her things in it.
Take one look at the setting, and you'll understand why people have been building here for centuries. The current house dates largely from the late 18th century, but records show a dwelling on the site for at least 400 years.
The original Tudor mansion, Greenway Court, belonged to the Gilbert family, Elizabethan seafarers of some renown, and played host to their half-brother Sir Walter Raleigh. The house you see today was built around 1780 by a later owner who, the story goes, bankrupted himself in the process. Worth it, though. With its white façade and neat rows of windows, Greenway remains one of Devon's loveliest Georgian houses.
There's a stranger chapter too. During the Second World War, Greenway was requisitioned by the US Coast Guard, and the Library still has a frieze painted in 1944 recording the wartime voyage of the 10th Flotilla. It's not what you expect to find in a room full of detective novels, and all the better for it.
Step through the door and you've taken a short trip back to the 1950s. The rooms are furnished as the family used them, not roped off as period set pieces, and it's this that gives Greenway its cosy, lived-in feel.
In the Drawing Room you'll find furniture brought from Ashfield, Christie's childhood home in Torquay, including her late 19th-century Steinway grand piano. She played it for family and friends, but never in public. This was the room where the family gathered for games and heard those manuscript readings.
Book lovers should give the Library and the Fax Room proper time. Greenway holds around 5,000 books, from foreign-language editions of Christie's novels to gardening manuals and children's stories, and the Fax Room upstairs displays rare first editions – a real treat for Agatha addicts.
Then there are the smaller touches. Christie's bedroom looks out towards the Dart and still contains her mother-of-pearl inlaid chest, exactly where she chose to put it. It's these details that make Greenway feel less like a museum and more like the family has just popped out to the river.
Don't rush the garden. It's substantial enough to be a day out on its own, and it boasts some of the best river views in Devon.
In the Walled Gardens, the Peach House runs a full 120 feet and still grows peaches, apricots and nectarines. Nearby are the Vinery, the Fernery (home to the family's small pet cemetery) and the lawn where the Christies played Clock Golf.
Head down towards the water and you'll reach the Battery, a real defensive fort from the 1790s. A little further on is the Boathouse, which Christie readers will recognise as the scene of the crime in Dead Man's Folly. The Boathouse Saloon is opened by volunteers, so it isn't guaranteed – treat it as a bonus rather than the point of the day. The riverside and foreshore are always there to explore.
And if you're visiting with little ones, or simply fancy an unhurried day, don't try to see everything. Pick the house, one corner of the garden and the river, and let Greenway be a place rather than a checklist.
Greenway is a good day out with children, and a few practical details make it easier. The garden has buggy-friendly routes (ask the Welcome Team), and you can borrow hip-carrying infant seats for the house, where a buggy is more hindrance than help. Baby-changing facilities sit beside the accessible toilets near the shop, there's a sensory station inside the house with items to borrow, and the Top Garden is the Trust's recommended quiet spot if anyone needs a breather.
Our tip? Do the house first, while attention spans are fresh, then let everyone loose in the garden. The Trust also runs family trails and activities through the year, so check what's on for your dates before you set off.
Greenway sits near Galmpton, on the far side of the Dart from most of the South Hams. Allow around 50 minutes by car from Flear Farm, and treat it as a full day out rather than something to squeeze in.
If you're driving, parking needs a little forethought. You must pre-book a space and choose a 30-minute arrival window, and the Trust asks drivers to keep their visit to around three hours. From the car park it's a 10-minute walk down the drive to the garden entrance; there's sometimes a volunteer-run buggy, but don't count on it.
There's a more romantic way in, too. Seasonal ferries link Greenway Quay with Dartmouth and Dittisham, and if you arrive on foot or by river you don't need to book at all. From Dittisham, the little passenger ferry crosses on demand. Just bear in mind the path up from the quay is gravel with steps, so it isn't the best route for anyone with limited mobility.
Planning several outings during your stay? Our guide to things to do in South Devon will help you balance heritage days with beaches and walks.
One of the pleasures of staying at Flear Farm is that a big day out doesn't have to be followed by another. Our 12 self-catering cottages sit across 27 acres of South Hams countryside and sleep from 2 to 10, with cots, highchairs and stair gates available on request. The indoor pool, playbarn and the farm itself give everyone plenty to come home to.
You'll find Greenway alongside plenty of other ideas in our guide to local South Devon attractions. And if you'd like to make it part of your own holiday, explore our cottages and check availability – then leave room in the week for Christie, the River Dart and a few slow days back at the farm.
Maybe you're planning a whistle-stop tour of South Devon. Or perhaps you're a Christie fan who wants to trace the life and times of a literary giant.
In any case, our holiday cottages are unbeatable as a base of operations. Staying at Flear Farm puts you a few short miles from Greenway Estate – and within easy driving distance of South Hams' most memorable historical attractions.
And, of course, comfort comes part and parcel. We have cottages for large and small groups – all equipped with luxury amenities and sporting delightfully unique period features.
Who knows? You might be inspired to write your own best-seller. Take a look at our range of luxury South Devon holiday cottages to get those literary cogs turning.